Sewing Pattern Review – March Dress by Helen’s Closet

Miss me my special sewing chums?

Have my knitting and crocheting posts been needling you? Cause, fear not, I’m back with more sewing. This time I made the March Dress / Top.

Yep. I fired up the machines just as Spring is approaching so I guess all those cozy fabrics I have will have to wait for another season. Of course, my lovely time with knitting and crocheting has been wonderful …and ongoing I might add… but it is time to create some actual clothes for moi for several upcoming family events.

I have to admit, that not being slim, statuesque (or young), my sartorial choices are limited. Further the image looking back at me in a mirror no longer matches my inner perception of me. (if it ever did? Oh well, easy fix there!) So, making something for myself requires me to take careful measurements and critically assess the look of an outfit on me. Fearful territory indeed. Luckily, I have a discerning and trusted advisor in my daughter so I was off to making choices.

I do like to be nice and presentable and do have a certain dignity to preserve. So…

I Chose the March Dress Pattern.

Now I have been eyeing the March Dress pattern since it came out in 2021, but I didn’t really think it would suit me. The top seemed too short & croppy (yes that is a word) and the dress seemed too frumpy (I don’t think the pattern is frumpy but the look on me might be).

I loved the possibility that the top is just screaming out for some embroidery on the front panel and I kept coming back to it. I have sewn another pattern from Helen’s Closet and was impressed by the seriously good instructions, like seriously great instructions! Further, she is very active on social media and there are tons of versions to see and also so many great hack options. Essentially, a great great Canadian pattern designer that you can never seem to go wrong with. (I made the Elliot Top/dress last year and just now realized I never about blogged it. Sorry about that, but I can say that the turtleneck is impressive. Again, I found it a bit too short for me so I plan on making another.) Moving on: Pattern purchased, downloaded, printed my size choice and cut out the pieces.

Sewing it up

So, I tend to need a trial run of any pattern and this outfit was planned for a specific event, so it definitely needed a practise run. I have tons of fabric in my stash (not sure how that happened) so it was time to dig. I found a nice weighty cotton with enough yardage. It has blue stripes which is nice and summery. I have tons of interfacing so that was not a problem for me, but be aware it takes quite a bit. No other notions needed so all good there. I used my BabyLock Brilliant for main construction, my serger to finish the seams and my Coverstitch (double stitching mode) for hems. I used all white thread.

From the March dress views, I chose B without the tie. The dress version was out for my tester due to fabric yardage restrictions, so no practice pockets. I cut out all the pieces without a lot to spare. I initially just cut only one peplum bottom on the fold too – needed two – and quickly realized it was not enough. Eeek. Just squeezed it out. Phew.

Construction

Instructions were excellent as expected. I did all the stay stitching and under stitching as described in the instructions. The front is a double layer of fabric that is top stitched together. I double stitched at the apex of the “V” with smaller stitches and used my sharpest small scissors to get super close to the stitches. It turned out perfectly. No bunching at all. I was a bit worried about the top stitching (or edge stitching) in such a visible place all the way down the front and back. Any mistakes would be obvious. But no, it all came out well. Slow and steady. Mind you, the white thread practically disappeared here too.

Adding the sleeves was so easy with the gathering at both ends so no easing in fitted shoulders. Now, I’m not the best gatherer for sure, but they seemed okay.

Trying it on for fit before the bottom fringe went on I was thinking it was going to be a dud for me. I liked the nice shape at the top and shoulders, but the flouncy wide bottom seemed to not be flattering on my body shape. However, and this is weird, once the peplum was finished, *poof* like magic it shone. I love it! The sleeves are to die for! In fact, this is definitely a wearable muslin.

On to the Next Version – Choices

So this next was going to be a dress for my event. The fabric was from Pure Linen Envy: sapphire blue from the summer breeze collection. I had to get some thread because all the blues I have were just not quite close enough and I needed close for the top / edge stitching. I went to down to Fabricland as I needed to visualize the colours for the best match. A few were close, but it is hard to compare thread on a spool to a scrap of fabric. Being rather shy, I don’t usually reach out to the employees, but I did ask for a second opinion in the end. The store attendant unravelled a few inches of thread from the spool and draped it across my sample scrap. Wow, it was much easier to see the best match that way. Live and learn. Thanks Fabricland.

Construction of the March Dress

Messed up a bit here cause I’m an idiot. I was on a high from the successful first attempt. My “V” had turned out so well, I got a little over confident and cut the seam allowance around the neck a bit close. Being linen, it frays like mad. My solution was stupid and without hesitating I put some fray check on it, right at the corner of the neck line. The fray check gobbed out and now shows through the fabric. Not obvious Fran! So, there is a slightly darker patch right front and centre – at least is won’t fray right? Due to the nature of linen, there are shadows and lighter areas when it moves, so I think I will still wear it.

Did you see it before I pointed it out?

Okay, 2nd epiphany. The dress version of this pattern looks AWFUL on me. No, seriously awful. The dress does not suit my body type in this fabric weight – and possibly in any weight. Just awful. I cut down the dress to a peplum, and lo, it suddenly looked lovely again. Strange effect. I had to cut down the lovely deep pockets to fit under the peplum but that worked okay since I left the peplum slightly longer than the first one. Done and dusted.

Finishing Touches

Because I switched from dress to top, I had extra fabric. I decided to try out a bag pattern that I had purchased a while ago. It is the Vignette Phone Cross-body bag from Hold It Right There sewing patterns for bag making. There is an excellent video to accompany the written instructions. I highly recommend and will be making more of this pattern! I used my linen fabric and some upholstery fabric that I had in a small quantity in my stash. For the closing, I used a fashion snap closure, but there are instructions for a magnetic snap as well. The strap is made from the linen rather than the recommended webbing.

Well, that is it. The top is incredibly comfortable to wear and I just love the puffy sleeves. I see many more of this pattern in my future. Also, I plan to make one with embroidery around the neckline. Helen’s closet has a wonderful blog entry on just this hack! I’m thinking I may make one in a lighter flowing fabric too.

Oh, this is one of my favourite tops to make! It works up really fast and just a few pieces. It is satisfying and looks great. What are your thoughts?